My self made souvenir from Vikersund. Boiled wool jacket. Felted wool jacket. Kwik Sew 2993

“Da, da” ! Here it is. My very own souvenir “from the “Vikersund sewing shop”! (See my last post https://sewingforfun.wordpress.com/2015/04/08/2129/ ).

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I bought this fabric from that shop. I fell in love with the quality of the fabric. Even though it is a felted wool, there is also stretch in it. Not the bulkiest wool and even though I prewashed it, the fabric did not seem to shrink much.

I did not use the same pattern as was used on the jackets in the sewing shop. I prefer raglan or set in sleeves and I already have enough such patterns at home. So, I used my “beloved «and well used Kwik Sew 2993 “hoodie” pattern.

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I have omitted any collar or neckband, only using a facing. Because I wanted to have a button up jacket I one inch /2.5 cm to the center front of the pattern.

In general, I have tried to make my jacket in the same type of style as the ones in the sewing shop. That means making things as simple as possible and leaving edges unfinished, because wool like this does not unravel.

You can see that simplicity in all the edges of the jacket. That means along the front and back facing,

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the Pockets

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along the peplum. The peplum is cut as a strip using my rotary cutter and pleated in place after the jacket was” fitted”.

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Here is the center back of the peplum. It is placed flat on the edge of the jacket and sewn flat in placel

The layers between all facings are interfaced though. Otherwise, the wool would stretch out of shape and there would not be enough stability for buttonholes and buttons. The edges that have interfacing have rows of topstitching to keep everything in Place.

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The sleeves are not “hemmed” or have any facing.

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I LOVE this jacket, because it is so Nice and soft. The fabric has good stretch. I can even turn up my sleeves without it feeling bulky.

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A small sewing shop in Vikersund, Norway. sewing inspiration

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In February, this year I visited a small town on the southwestern part of Norway called Vikersund. This is a cozy little town with a population of a little less than 3000 people. One of their main attractions was their ski jump, which at present is the largest ski jump and the only ski jump made for “ski flying” in Norway.hopp

While I was there I enjoyed walking through their small shopping street, studying clothes on display and to my great joy, there was a very small sewing shop there.

Of course, I had to go into that store. In the back sat a woman at a sewing machine and I started studying things she had made. It is so much fun to look at things on display, gathering inspiration and enjoy her work.

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The woman running the store was very pleasant as she shared some of her work with me. I had to take out my cell phone and take some Pictures.

She told me that she arranged sewing classes where they made wool-felted jackets.

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It was fun to see how she worked draping fabric over her dress form and then sewing them together into arrangements that pleased her eye.DSC_0060

Of course, I had to buy my own bit of fabric from her so I could make myself a souvenir when I got back home. You can see what I made in my Next post :-)

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Skirt from leftovers. from Dress with Petticoat 09/2014 #111 from burdastyle

after finishing my second edition of Dress with Petticoat 09/2014 #111 from burdastyle , I had a Nice sized leftover fabric. I Guess I am not so good at estimating fabric so my stash pile just seems to get larger all the time. I wanted to use this fabric right away and decided I would take the skirt part of the dress pattern and just convert it into a skirt. In the back I have a invisible zipper and the waist I quickly finished with some bias tape  I made from the fabric. I already knew it would fit and “Walla” a New skirt was born.

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Dress with Petticoat 09/2014 #111 from burdastyle – Version 2

After working so hard getting this pattern right, I had to use it again, and made a second dress.IMG_1221

Standing outside With just a dress is a bit on the Cold side. But getting good Pictures is a priority, especially when we didn’t bring a good camera,  cell phone quality will have to do. Here’s my “gal” round 2 :-).

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Of course assembling it took much less time this second round. The photos are at our cabin. It is Easter time and we have enjoyed spending some time together here. Wonderful weather and the Peace of nature around us. Fantastic. It definable is sewing time for Me.

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: Dress with Petticoat 09/2014 #111 from burdastyle

skisse16.03I am finished!!!! The last couple of weeks I have worked on this dress. I made all the parts except the belt.  The petticoat was finished today and my daughter and I are both very happy with the results.

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In this photo you can see a tiny bit of the petticoat. My daughter loves drama and happily poses for her photoes!

I ended up sewing the cuffsto the dress. Because I placed the zipper in the center back I sewed half of the collar to the dress and the other half has snaps on it.

I shortened the sleeves, the skirt length and the center front slit. But in general I really like the shape of this dress.

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Adjusting the fit over the bust was my greatest Challenge With this pattern. My daughter is an A cup, so I had to do something there. You can read about that in my previous post https://sewingforfun.wordpress.com/2015/03/23/reducing-the-bust-size-on-a-princess-seam-dress/

I made my own Version of the petticoat. It needed to be much Shorter then the pattern indicates to fit the length of her dress. It is built on the general pattern instructions though. If I did it again, I would use even less fabric in the very top part. I dont like bulk in the tummy area. Still it Works well. IMG_8983

This coming Sunday my daughter is off to her Easter youth retreat with the youth in Our Church. Now she is ready for the party on the last night of the retreat. She is looking forward to this very much. Being a Young woman looking and feeling pretty is so important.

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And me, I couldn’t be more proud of my wonderful Young “lady”! She has her own style and lets me know exactly what the garment needs to look like. But this is great, because I want her to feel good about what she is wearing.  :-)

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Cleaning my iroon.

DESPERATE SITUATIONS CALL FOR DESPERATE MEASURES:

As you can tell by my last post, I am working on my daughters dress. The dress itself is actually finished, but I am working on some crisp white cuffs and collar that are a part of the set.

Of course, working With white, we don’t want any spots or stains, now do we???

When I was interfacing my fabric today, I found my iron was badly stained. I usually clean it by using fabric softener. (In Norway, you cannot buy dryer sheets). SO, I soak some toilet paper and wet a towel thoughrally and rub my iron against this surface, while pressing the steam button.

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Here the stain is already gone from the iron, but you can see the messy surface I was working With, trying to get this thing cleaned. It Works, but wow, it can be so exhausting after a while.

 

Well, I was doing this, rubbing the iron back and forth thing. It seemed like I had done it a 1000 times. The stain was taking its good old time. In the end, I just couldn’t take it anymore.

When my pots in the Kitchen get badly stained, I usually take a piece of machine dishwashing detergent, put it in the pot with some water and let it boil. This gradually gets the stain of (I use a wooden spatula to scrub with).

I filled the pot With just enough water so it barely touched the bottom of my iron.

I filled the pot With just enough water so it barely touched the bottom of my Iron.

So, I decided I needed help and the pot solution was the best one I could come up with. I put loose bottom that belongs to my steam pressure in the bottom and filled the pot with just enough water that it would barely touch my iron (that I put in there). And would you believe it??? Afterwards I just washed the iron with clean water. My stain is gone and I am ready for sewing again.

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Reducing the bust size on a princess seam dress.

 

Currently I am working on a princess seam dress with raglan sleeves for my youngest daughter. Next week she is going to a youth conference and needs a new dress.

While I was at our cabin, she called to ask me if I would make something for her, and of course I would. She chose the pattern herself (found it on Burdastyle.com). This is the dress : Dress with Petticoat 09/2014 #111

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Like most other adult patterns, this pattern would be too big in the bust area for her. She has the height of a woman, but of course being only 14 ½, is not so “well endowed” in the chest area just yet.

So, HOW DO YOU REDUCE THE BUST SIZE ON A PRINCES SEAM TOP??? It sounds really simple, (just take in the seams?) But NO, that wouldn’t work.

My little gray cells were having a field time trying to find a solution. On Craftsy.com I am enrolled in a class called “adjust the bust” with Kathleen Cheetham. Se adresses reducing the volume of the bust size in a princess seam in Lesson 6, Chapter 4. But somehow I overlooked this and searched the internet for information.

After searching, I had two challenges. How to reduce the cup size (that is adressed in the craftsy class also)  and how to adjust the pattern pieces so the horizontal seam goes straight over my daughters bust point. In other Words, moving the bust point closer together.

My brake through came when I found a link to Threads magazine where they address this issue. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/24234/princess-seams-and-the-small-bust . Wonderful, now I had a formula to work with. I had to try this out.

I decided this formula answered half my question. It shows how to reduce volume, but says nothing about bringing the bust pints closer together (With a smaller bust the bust points are closer together). Still I decided I would try. This is my solution, I am sure there are others, (maybe who are  simpler and more systematic?) But my method also worked :-)

 

First, I found where the bust points were on the sewing pattern. I lay the pattern pieces flat on the table, aligning them according to the grain line and  and so they ligned up according to the Points they would be joined. I then marked the point where the pattern pieces meet.This is the bust point.IMG_8882

I divided the bust point measurement in two, since the pattern represents half the bodice front.

On the pattern, piece itself the bust points were 21 cm apart. I subtracted 15 cm (my daughters bust point measurement) and got 6 cm. I then divided 6 cm into two since I am working with half the bodice front giving me 3 cm.Even though I wanted to reduce this volume from the center front, I still needed the volume in the garment itself. I decided to move this to the “side front pattern piece”.

I cut allong the grainline of the center front and overlapped by 3 cm.

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I drew the area I wanted to subtract fron the center front parallell to the grain line and overlapped these pieces. You can see the 3 cm I wanted to subtract marked With red. I then overlapped these pieces.

 

Then I drew up 3 cm on a separate piece of paper, cut the side front in two allong the grain line, and taped them to each side of the  the added  volume. volume. IMG_8893IMG_8894.

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The side front and center front after inserting and overlapping by 3 cm.

One Challenge I met while working With this, was retaining the integrity of the origional pattern shape in the top and bottom parts of the pattern. I solved this by drawing the origional shapes of the origional front and center front pattern pieces before altering them.

Draw the shape of the shoulder slope from the center front and side front before alteration.

Draw the shape of the shoulder slope from the center front and side front before alteration.

The total shape of the center front shoulder seam and bottom edge of side front and center front pattern pieces befor alteration.

The total shape of the center front shoulder seam and bottom edge of side front and center front pattern pieces befor alteration.

I used this as a guide when trewing up the top and bottom shapes of the pattern pieces after I doing the alteration.

 

Now, finally I used the tip from threads. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/24234/princess-seams-and-the-small-

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I overlapped the center front by 1/2 an inch. In the side front I did a vertical cut and overlapped it so that I gradually went from subtracting 1/2 inch to nothing in the side.

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All done :-). Now all I have to do is redraw the pattern pieces and true up the grainline!!! :-)

Finnished and ready to sew :-)

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