: Dress with Petticoat 09/2014 #111 from burdastyle

skisse16.03I am finished!!!! The last couple of weeks I have worked on this dress. I made all the parts except the belt.  The petticoat was finished today and my daughter and I are both very happy with the results.

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In this photo you can see a tiny bit of the petticoat. My daughter loves drama and happily poses for her photoes!

I ended up sewing the cuffsto the dress. Because I placed the zipper in the center back I sewed half of the collar to the dress and the other half has snaps on it.

I shortened the sleeves, the skirt length and the center front slit. But in general I really like the shape of this dress.

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Adjusting the fit over the bust was my greatest Challenge With this pattern. My daughter is an A cup, so I had to do something there. You can read about that in my previous post https://sewingforfun.wordpress.com/2015/03/23/reducing-the-bust-size-on-a-princess-seam-dress/

I made my own Version of the petticoat. It needed to be much Shorter then the pattern indicates to fit the length of her dress. It is built on the general pattern instructions though. If I did it again, I would use even less fabric in the very top part. I dont like bulk in the tummy area. Still it Works well. IMG_8983

This coming Sunday my daughter is off to her Easter youth retreat with the youth in Our Church. Now she is ready for the party on the last night of the retreat. She is looking forward to this very much. Being a Young woman looking and feeling pretty is so important.

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And me, I couldn’t be more proud of my wonderful Young “lady”! She has her own style and lets me know exactly what the garment needs to look like. But this is great, because I want her to feel good about what she is wearing.  :-)

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Cleaning my iroon.

DESPERATE SITUATIONS CALL FOR DESPERATE MEASURES:

As you can tell by my last post, I am working on my daughters dress. The dress itself is actually finished, but I am working on some crisp white cuffs and collar that are a part of the set.

Of course, working With white, we don’t want any spots or stains, now do we???

When I was interfacing my fabric today, I found my iron was badly stained. I usually clean it by using fabric softener. (In Norway, you cannot buy dryer sheets). SO, I soak some toilet paper and wet a towel thoughrally and rub my iron against this surface, while pressing the steam button.

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Here the stain is already gone from the iron, but you can see the messy surface I was working With, trying to get this thing cleaned. It Works, but wow, it can be so exhausting after a while.

 

Well, I was doing this, rubbing the iron back and forth thing. It seemed like I had done it a 1000 times. The stain was taking its good old time. In the end, I just couldn’t take it anymore.

When my pots in the Kitchen get badly stained, I usually take a piece of machine dishwashing detergent, put it in the pot with some water and let it boil. This gradually gets the stain of (I use a wooden spatula to scrub with).

I filled the pot With just enough water so it barely touched the bottom of my iron.

I filled the pot With just enough water so it barely touched the bottom of my Iron.

So, I decided I needed help and the pot solution was the best one I could come up with. I put loose bottom that belongs to my steam pressure in the bottom and filled the pot with just enough water that it would barely touch my iron (that I put in there). And would you believe it??? Afterwards I just washed the iron with clean water. My stain is gone and I am ready for sewing again.

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Reducing the bust size on a princess seam dress.

Currently I am working on a princess seam dress with raglan sleeves for my youngest daughter. Next week she is going to a youth conference and needs a new dress.

While I was at our cabin, she called to ask me if I would make something for her, and of course I would. She chose the pattern herself (found it on Burdastyle.com). This is the dress : Dress with Petticoat 09/2014 #111

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Like most other adult patterns, this pattern would be too big in the bust area for her. She has the height of a woman, but of course being only 14 ½, is not so “well endowed” in the chest area just yet.

So, HOW DO YOU REDUCE THE BUST SIZE ON A PRINCES SEAM TOP??? It sounds really simple, (just take in the seams?) But NO, that wouldn’t work.

My little gray cells were having a field time trying to find a solution. On Craftsy.com I am enrolled in a class called “adjust the bust” with Kathleen Cheetham. In this class reducing and increasing bust size are addressed, but not specifically for the princess seam top. (Although she does show how to move the bust point up or down on a princess seam).

After searching, I had two challenges. How to reduce the cup size and how to adjust the pattern pieces so the horizontal seam goes straight over my daughters bust point.

My brake through came when I found a link to Threads magazine where they address this issue. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/24234/princess-seams-and-the-small-bust . Wonderful, now I had a formula to work with. I had to try this out.

I decided this formula answered half my question. It shows how to reduce volume, but says nothing about bringing the bust pints closer together (With a smaller bust the bust points are closer together). Still I decided I would try. This is my solution, I am sure there are others, (maybe who are  simpler and more systematic?) But my method also worked :-)

 

First, I found where the bust points were on the sewing pattern. I lay the pattern pieces flat on the table, aligning them according to the grain line and  and so they ligned up according to the Points they would be joined. I then marked the point where the pattern pieces meet.This is the bust point.IMG_8882

I divided the bust point measurement in two, since the pattern represents half the bodice front.

On the pattern, piece itself the bust points were 21 cm apart. I subtracted 15 cm (my daughters bust point measurement) and got 6 cm. I then divided 6 cm into two since I am working with half the bodice front giving me 3 cm.Even though I wanted to reduce this volume from the center front, I still needed the volume in the garment itself. I decided to move this to the “side front pattern piece”.

I cut allong the grainline of the center front and overlapped by 3 cm.

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I drew the area I wanted to subtract fron the center front parallell to the grain line and overlapped these pieces. You can see the 3 cm I wanted to subtract marked With red. I then overlapped these pieces.

 

Then I drew up 3 cm on a separate piece of paper, cut the side front in two allong the grain line, and taped them to each side of the  the added  volume. volume. IMG_8893IMG_8894.

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The side front and center front after inserting and overlapping by 3 cm.

One Challenge I met while working With this, was retaining the integrity of the origional pattern shape in the top and bottom parts of the pattern. I solved this by drawing the origional shapes of the origional front and center front pattern pieces before altering them.

Draw the shape of the shoulder slope from the center front and side front before alteration.

Draw the shape of the shoulder slope from the center front and side front before alteration.

The total shape of the center front shoulder seam and bottom edge of side front and center front pattern pieces befor alteration.

The total shape of the center front shoulder seam and bottom edge of side front and center front pattern pieces befor alteration.

I used this as a guide when trewing up the top and bottom shapes of the pattern pieces after I doing the alteration.

 

Now, finally I used the tip from threads. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/24234/princess-seams-and-the-small-

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I overlapped the center front by 1/2 an inch. In the side front I did a vertical cut and overlapped it so that I gradually went from subtracting 1/2 inch to nothing in the side.

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All done :-). Now all I have to do is redraw the pattern pieces and true up the grainline!!! :-)

Finnished and ready to sew :-)

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Dog pantie and diaper.

Meat Maja. She is a seven-month-old mix of Chihuahua and Jack Russell Terrier. My oldest son and daughter in law are her “parents” and I am lucky enough to be her “granny” :-)

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Maja loves to play with her ball. This Christmas we watched her while my son and daughter in law visited the Philippines. One morning I woke up, she had crawled under my blankets and was making a noise that was gradually bothering me. She had her ball, a squeaking ball…. In her mouth. I took it away from her and hid it. However, with her excellent smell she soon found my “not so good” hiding place. I ended up taking it away again and putting it out of reach. She was driving me crazy with the ball and I wanted to wake up in peace!!!

Despite her intense love for this object (the ball), Maja is quite adorable.

She went into “heat” for the first time about a week ago and I made her panties and diapers.

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The pantie pattern was a free download from http://www.mimiandtara.com/2012/05/dog-sanitary-panty-diaper-nappy.html . I really like them, but I had to make several changes to the pattern. I found that it is important to place the elastic at the narrows part of the dog. This for Maja is right above her tail. So there was no room for ruffles at the top.

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The panties are light and comfortable but, the “crafty” little Maja, takes it of during the night. So today I made her some very sturdy Dog Diapers.  I got the pattern at http://www.craftsy.com/pattern/sewing/pet/dog-diaper-pattern-sizes-xxs-xs-s-m-l

 mønster craftsy  I used a wide velcro instead of the narrow kind and made ajustments to the pattern, f.example I made the diaper wider on the tail side and added elastic above the tail so it would  hug the body. This is meant to STAY ON, even though the little MISS does not agree.

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sewing zipper With beading foot. sew zipper

Lately I have used my lagre beading foot when adding zippers. It lays so Nice and flat over my zipper teeth. I moove the needle position right or left  to suit my needs :-). Works wonderfully :-)glidelås

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Love Notion: Ladies Trendy Tunic

LadiesTrendyTunicThe last couple of weeks I have spent at my cabin. I have sewing with knits only. Made several versions of “The Ladies Trendy Tunic” (found the pattern on Craftsy) and a couple of hoodies for my son.

When I saw this tunic pattern I fell in love with it right away. It was something I would enjoy wearing. Stylish, yet VERY comfortable.

My three first versions are made from a stretch cotton velour. It is SO nice and soft. I love the feel of it.  In the last two tunics I used French Terry Knit. I like topstitching and the Coverpro CPX 1000 is a great friend in projects like this. I made a decorative cover seam in the center front and back panels.

 

IMG_8305When I started working on the first version I trusted the size chart. Wow, I should have measured the pattern with a measuring tape in stead (like the fitting classes teach), but I was to lazy, just hoped it would be correct. Look at this, it is totally HUGE.

I made a size small on top and extra small over the hip. Now I have worked on getting the perfect fit. There are small differences in the different versions, as I tried to find what was right for me. As far as I remember I have reduced my original pattern with at least 12 cm ((4.8 inches) from both front and back sections. I tried to keep most of my changes here, so I didn’t interfere too much with the side pockets. In addition I “tweaked” a little here and there.

 

Now dont be scared by this first version. It turned out better as I worked with it.

This is my second attempt at the pattern. It is my shortest version. At first I didn’t like it so much, but it is growing on me.  My husband likes this one.IMG_8353

 

Tunic number 3 is  gray. I bought the fabric thinking it would make the perfect tunic.. But as I worked with it I took in a little too much under the arms. In the end I added a little fabric in this area,, mending my mistakes. Yes, I can wear it and it is comfortable, but I don’t think it ended up being as perfect as I planned. IMG_8345IMG_8341
Finallly my last two tunics i French Terry knit. I bought this fabric in the LA California fashion district as my husband and I visited this summer.

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After working with these tunics I still love the pattern. I will definetly use it again. But I would recomend measuring the bust, hip and waist areas of the pattern pieces and letting that guide you as you size your pattern.

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Lekala 4119. t-shirt. Getting ready for summer.

I am busy making summer clothes for my upcoming trip to the states. On 16 July, my husband and I are flying to LA CaliforniaJ. I am So much looking forward to this. It is our 25th wedding anniversary and this is our way of celebrating.

Ordering fabric over the internet can be “interesting”. When I received this IT jersey print, I wondered to myself if I could ever find a decent project for it. Something that would help me love it, even just a little?spraglete stoff
I have always preferred fabric that can make me feel calm and serene. Of course, I like a little touch of excitement, but This was a little too “exciting”. Just look at it, wouldn’t it spin your head?

line drawcoverLekala 4119 is a easy sewing pattern with only 3 parts. Front, back and waistband. I just finished constructing the pleated skirt for my Craftsy class and felt ready for an easy project. When I rummaged through my light jersey fabrics I felt the “gaudy”, “awful” fabric cry for me to “give it a chance”! OK, I would use it for the trial Version.

spraglet forranspraglet sideIt actually looks better as a top then when it was a “piece of fabric”. Still a little on the “wild side”, but maybe it is good for a sunny day?

I made two pink versions that I could wear with my skirt and one striped. I really like the pattern and will use it again.lysrosa sideforrangammelrosa forran gammelrosa bak

Sewing instructions are available for some of the lekala patterns at lekala.co, but I prefer to solve the Puzzle on my own. This one was very simple, but I decided I would share how I have done it in an upcoming post.

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