I am continuing my exploration of the models presented in the book “Pattern Magic” by Tomoko Nakamichi. Now that I finished working with my last project, I want to build on to it, adding a collar. I have chosen Nakamichi’s collar titled “two distinct expressions”. It is sort of cool, because there are two collars in one.
The collar isn’t difficult to make. The part I found challenging, was understanding how to construct the pattern. Here I will show how I solved the puzzle.
First it was necessary to identify the length of my neckline. I placed my basic patter pieces together (slopers) and measured the total length of the neck line. The top I am making will have a zipper in the back, not buttons down the front like the photo presented in the book. I am therefore making the collar as two separate parts.
I continued by marking where the front and the back pieces join together. The back measurements are defined as a single O, while the front is marked as a double O. This is also how they are defined in the book.
On this photo you can see, how I have marked the front and back measurements as O and O within a O. When this construction part was done, the book tells us to draw the collar attachment line from the largest construction piece to the smaller one (step 3, in the book). I chose to copy it as far as it would fit on the pattern piece by putting the smaller on top of the larger one. This might not be the correct way; you might find your own solution.
I ended up with four pattern pieces. Small a and b, representing the parts that will form c when joined together. In addition I had the two first pieces I constructed before cutting off what was under the attachment line. Cut two pieces of each part.
Now that small”a” and small “b” are joined together, the other two parts are sewn on in this manner. The larger pattern piece is in the bottom. It will become the under part of the bottom collar. The top pattern piece in is the inside of the top collar.
After adding these parts, I cut of the excess fabric and turned my collar right sides out. I ironed it folding under the seam allowance on the last two parts.
Because the collar pieces would not conceal the area between where the two collars would be sewn on, I added a little piece of fabric in the center front. Then I folded it under and basted it on the reverse by hand.
Now, I am ready to add my collar.
I placed the right side of the under collar to the right of my “bodice”. Then I stitched along the seam line of the under collar (it is easy to see, because I pressed it earlier).
The inside collar I attached along the neckline by hand. The collar is finished!!!
As a finishing comment, I would like to ask a question. The instructions (in point nr 4) say”make five slits in the collar running towards the collar stand as shown in the drawing”! Does anyone know what this means. I reasoned with myself and decided that it can’t mean cutting all the way through the fabric. I took a knife, pressed it firmly to the fabric and made five traces. I wonder if anyone knows the correct way of doing this. I figured it is to soften the grain of the fabric in some way???