Kwik Sew 3452, alternative pocket solution, how to sew pockets on sweatshirt or “hoodie”.

This is the pattern I have used the most off all my sewing patterns. I keep coming back to it, but I never make it exactly the way the pattern is described from the manufacturer. I often add a hood, ribbing, modefyed pockets or other alterations I might feel like. In general I find that this is a great basic pattern that gives me a good foundation to improvise on. Here are a couple of my newer hoodies sewn with this type of pocket. You might also like to check out my past review of this sewing pattern. You can find it here: https://sewingforfun.wordpress.com/2011/03/10/kwik-sew-3452/

The pocket area in my opinion is very important in order to give the jacket/sweater both a good feel and look. I have experimented using different types of lining fabric and different pocket variations.  My conclusion so far is, to eliminate as many visible seams as possible.  My latest solution has been to cut the front pattern piece over the pocket area, creating a top and bottom front part.

A thin stretch jersey works well as a pocket lining for jerseys and fleece. It is soft and does not weigh the garment down too much. I often use leftover fabric pieces. Sometimes I even use an old T-shirt.

I cut a total of 4 pocket pieces at least a inch larger then the front pocket panel. This  gives the stretchy fabrics room to adjust to each other while I am sewing. When I finnish a seam,  I trim the pocket lining to match the front.

Ironing is essential to help the pocket lining and sweater fabric adjusts to each other. Even seams in fleece fabrics need to be pressed, but it is important to use an ironing cloth so you don’t destroy your fabric.

The first seam I sew is the pocket opening. I place the first pocket lining fabric right sides together, press the pocket lining with an iron ( while it is lying on the top of the front panel). Then I pin the parts together and sew the pocket opening seam.  

Flip the lining fabric to the wrong side of the front panel, iron, pin and then baste it to the back of the front part.

With right side of front panel facing down and pocket lining on top, place second pocket lining on top of the first.

  • Press
  • Pin
  • And baste all outer edges except the pocket opening itself.

Now sew top front to the lower front. Finally as the last part of these alteration instructions, sew the side panel’s to the front panels.  Try to make the side seam very close to the pocket opening (I think it gives the most attractive look). Usually I do this by running my fingers along the side opening as I sew. I baste the seam first, just in case I “snag” the pocket opening itself (this makes it easier to fix the mistake without too much work).  When I am satisfied I sew and overclock.

Now the pockets are in place.

As a finishing touch, I usually add some type of ribbing in the bottom of the sweater.

Good luck

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About sewingforfun

Have four children, am a nurse. Am presently at home during the days. Have been sewing since I was little, and I enjoy it.
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